ARTIST'S SPOTLIGHT - karoline healy
- eliane de luca peres
- 3 days ago
- 2 min read
Born in London from Karoline Healy’s vision, H₂ERǴ is a jewelry brand that looks to the past and the future at once. Drawing on science, history, and the quiet beauty of natural forms, each piece is crafted in recycled silver and ethical materials — jewelry that shines with both meaning and care. When I first saw her work I was intrigued and mesmerized – the concept, the process and the research that goes into her work is simply amazing. Here is her story!
I learned the basics of jewelry during a semester of my degree course at Nottingham Trent University here in the UK. Quite a few years had passed before I decided to pick up the tools again. I then started practicing what I already learned and then developing new skills like stone settings, delft casting & wax work through trial and error, watching YouTube and tips from online blogs.
For years, I had been working as a materials researcher in the design & architecture industry, so I have always been inquisitive to uncovering the latest innovations, new technologies, looking to understand regenerative material flows, and sustainability.
I had become obsessed with New Scientist magazine, and science in general. I wanted a creative outlet to explore the ideas, concepts and forms found in science, nature and the universe. So I set up my jewelry brand H₂ERǴ, the aim was to use craft and making to explore future concepts.
My first collection was called Natural Basics. It was a speculation on a future where me might be able use biotechnologies and altered nature to grow metals into everyday day jewelry. I made a chain with links that are inspired by roots and hoop earrings by microscopic filamentous structures from mycelium called hyphae.
My work draws inspiration from a wide range of sources; natural growth formations like plant tendrils, animals and microorganisms, surrealism, antique German ironwork & ancient forged throwing knives
My work always centers on the materials, so looking at what is next. Aside from jewelry collection and bespoke commissions, I have been working on my ongoing research project Future Metals.
This is a long-term investigation where I my goal is to make the most sustainable gold ring to exist. I am exploring regenerative & biological methods, bio mining, to recover precious metals for jewelry.
In collaboration with Phyona I made a ring using metals mined by plants, the process is called Phytomining. Phyona are biology start up from the UK who are using plants to mine metals from contaminated soils and landscapes. My ring contains a rich mix of metals like silver, titanium, lead, nickel, copper, and zinc, which was recovered from the polluted soils of historical mining site in Barnsley. The plants suck up metals from the soil, through their roots into the leaves and stems. The plants are then harvested and the metallic compounds recovered. These miners are native species of plants like foxgloves, thistles and grasses. In addition, beyond this I am looking to collaborate with other scientists working with bacteria to recover precious metals from local waste streams.
